After an unexpected night or trying to finish off all booze (unsuccessfully, there were at least a dozen bottles) with Katie and Susan and Jeff, we awoke groggily, had the last of our free breakfasts at the Doubletree in Los Angeles and hit the road for San Francisco.
It was my plan to take the Pacific Coast Highway north through Malibu and Santa Barbara and up the coast. It would take twice as long, but it would be scenic. Selena overruled this idea concerned for Kaylee’s ability to keep it together for such a long drive, and we took I-5 out of the city instead. It was pleasant nice drive most of the way to Bakersfield, but I was regretting not taking the coast road right about when the Interstate became an excruciatingly boring drive, which was the same point that we realize our timing would land us right in the middle of the Bay Area rush hour.
So, we were spontaneous and ventured off the Interstate back to the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH). As soon as we were off the highway, we suddenly found ourselves in nowheresville California. We were two hours north of LA, south of SF and near nothing at all except a sign, about 10 miles in saying that the road we were on was now closed. We were about to double back when we saw another car skirt around us and the Road Closed sign and continue on. Selena asked what to do, and in a spirit of adventure, I encouraged her “Follow that car, drive on.”
We entered onto the closed road, and the next 13 miles were the most exciting part of the whole trip to California. That car I suggested following was long gone and we were along, driving down this empty road. There with potholes abounding but not a house or store in sight, and no signal on the cell phones. It dawned on me just how dire a predicament we’d be in if we blew a tire at this point, we couldn’t even flag down a passerby; we weren’t on a real road.
Selena’s anxiety was noticeable, but she overcame that tension and drove on, continuing to wonder aloud, as I did, why is this road closed? Does it just end somewhere? Is it privately owned by a rancher who will be unhappy we are here, or a government agency doing some sort of testing out here? My mind was racing through all the possibilities when finally we got an answer.
“Is it a mirage, or is there no more road ahead?” I asked. Selena confirmed, there was no road, just packed earth. In the last thirty feet before this road intersected back with the main road we wanted to get onto, there was no more road. It had been dug up to make way for expanding the intersecting road into a new four lane highway.
In another extremely risky move, we decided that we’d gone too far down this tense drive to back-peddle, so off-road we went. It wasn’t far and soon we were back on a main thoroughfare across the state back to the PCH. It may not sound like a big deal, but with baby in the car, gas low, a rental car you are not sure about, a lack of road, and no cell service, we were pretty frazzled by our series of risky choices.
The drive from there was to the Hearst Castle on the coast. Apparently the newspaper mogul liked camping atop this hills looking over the ocean but when he tried to build a little bungalow he remembered he was filthy rich and scope-creeped the project until he turned it to a gigantic castle. I would hate to have been the designer on that project.
We continued up the PCH to a brief stop for photos of a pride of sea lions lounging on the beach, then onward through Big Sur, which is one of the more beautiful and inaccessible places I’ve ever been, It is steep mountains on the right hugging the Pacific Ocean a cliff face below on the left, winding on and on for nearly 80 miles. It was an absolutely beautiful drive, a great recommendation from our friend Erin. There are three exceptionally tiny, blink-and-you-missed-them towns on that remote stretch of highway. Each had a gas station that was charging $5.50 for a galloon of gas. Wow!
We rounded out the coastal trip with a quick trip to Monterey, then over to Salinas to see what Steinbeck was seeing when he wrote all his great works about that area of the country. Night had falled by the time we reached the garlic-land Gilroy and continued north through San Jose, up the peninsula through Silicon Valley and finally late into the night we arrived at our hotel at the perimeter of Union Square and Chinatown in downtown San Francisco.

Kaylee wandering at Hearst Castle

The sea lions near Hearst Castle

Big Sur

Big Sur

Selena at John Steinbeck's house in Salinas